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By bethany (dreadlock girl), September 24, 2009 9:36 pm

Do you ever do something in your little pond and think that maybe you have a gift? What if you do have a gift, but you let others judge you and make you think that you don’t? Yes, call me pensive. Those questions were popping repeatedly in my head yesterday after I got the message below of my denial for entering my photos on a stock images site. I thought I would make it, that I could earn some dough by just having my photos sit on there and lazily earn dough even while sleeping. I guess I should try a different get-rich -quick scheme? HA.

Anyway, what do you do when rejected? Do you consider yourself a failure, or do you toughen up and move on-learning from your mistakes. I guess I do both, maybe at the same time. I first opened the rejection letter below and then scoffed and deleted it. Luckily I have gmail and digging though your trash is one thing it is great at-so I dived the dumpster and re-read. The second time I read it I thought, well, I do agree with some things (although other comments are too vague) and really criticism is good. What is hard is that I shoot for fun, and if I like the shot that is all that matters. When I put my hobby up for people to judge and also to earn money then I no longer am doing it for fun. I am not sure what I think about that either.

Anyway, I wanted you to read my rejection. I may try again, but I still don’t really know if I want to.

Hi,

Thank you for your submission to Shutterstock.

In order for Shutterstock to maintain the high standard of our photography collection, new submitters must receive approval on at least seven (7) of their first ten (10) images to continue uploading. Unfortunately, while some of the images you submitted may meet our guidelines, we are unable to approve the requisite number and have temporarily disabled the uploading function on your account. This decision was based on concerns about quality, composition, lighting, or other features of your initial batch of images and we have listed the reasons below.

We invite you to resubmit in 30 days. In the meantime, you can still post banners, earn money from referring photographers, and participate in our forum discussions. Please do not create more than one account; doing so will result in permanent suspension.

Thank you for your interest in Shutterstock. We look forward to seeing you again in 30 days!

37594939		Not Approved	Model Release–Please re-upload with release. Poor Lighting–Poor or uneven lighting, or shadows. White balance may be incorrect. Focus–Your image is not in focus or focus is not located where we feel it works best. Noise–Noise, film grain, over-sharpening, or artifacts at full size. Composition–Limited commercial value due to framing, cropping, and/or composition.
37594942		Not Approved	Composition–Limited commercial value due to framing, cropping, and/or composition.
37594945		Not Approved	Composition–Limited commercial value due to framing, cropping, and/or composition. Model Release–Please re-upload with release. Poor Lighting–Poor or uneven lighting, or shadows. White balance may be incorrect. Focus–Your image is not in focus or focus is not located where we feel it works best.
37594948		Not Approved	Composition–Limited commercial value due to framing, cropping, and/or composition. Poor Lighting–Poor or uneven lighting, or shadows. White balance may be incorrect.
37594951		Not Approved	7 of 10 must be approved
37594954		Not Approved	Poor Lighting–Poor or uneven lighting, or shadows. White balance may be incorrect.
37594957		Not Approved	Model Release–Please re-upload with release. Focus–Your image is not in focus or focus is not located where we feel it works best. Noise–Noise, film grain, over-sharpening, or artifacts at full size.
37594960		Not Approved	Model Release–Please re-upload with release. Noise–Noise, film grain, over-sharpening, or artifacts at full size.
37594963		Not Approved	Model Release–Please re-upload with release. Focus–Your image is not in focus or focus is not located where we feel it works best.
37594966		Not Approved	Noise–Noise, film grain, over-sharpening, or artifacts at full size.

Regards,
Shutterstock Support

The Basics
Capture Real People, In Real Life Shots
Work That Thing! How to Get the Best Shots
Tips for Group Shots: How to Shoot a Group Session Like You Know What You’re Doing!
Photo Editing, Fixin’ Your Images
Taking the Best Black and White Photos: What to Look For
What does the ISO Do For You?: Learning more about the ISO

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By bethany (dreadlock girl), August 18, 2009 9:23 pm

Kissing, Image shot at ISO 1600.

To really understand what ISO is and what it does, and to really get it you need to know first what it was before digital cameras. After that I’ll try to get down to what it is and why it is important. This is a more technical photo post, I hope you follow. Please let me know if something I say is unclear, because I am sure someone else will have the same question.

What the ISO was: It was, in the era of non-digital cameras a number that was written on the individual film rolls that you purchased for your camera. When I was in photography class, we used ISO 400 to allow for more light and quicker shots, such as sporting events or low light situations, and ISO 200 for regular headshots or point and shoot people events. So the higher the ISO the film had, the more light it allowed in. In the past (when using film) you were stuck with one ISO setting for that entire roll, no adjustments.

What the ISO is now: Now that the world has skip, hopped and jumped forward to digital cameras the ISO means something similar, but without using film. It is another adjustment you can make when taking pictures and want to allow for more exposure (let in more light, make your shot brighter). You can fidget with the light meter, the shutter speed, and on a digital camera you can mess with the ISO as well. The higher the ISO, the more light that will be allowed in, the more light sensitive that that shot will be.

According to Ben Long in The Cannon EOS Digital Rebel XSi/440D Companion, “ISO is a standard for measuring the sensitivity of film. Digital vendors have adopted the standard for specifying the sensitivity of a digital image sensor. When you increase the ISO setting on the Rebel XSi, you’re essentially making the sensor more light sensitive. As the sensor becomes more sensitive, it will require shorter exposures to be able to “see” a scene” (p. 93)

The way digital cameras are set up now you can shoot at an ISO of 1600 which enables you to shoot with the image sensor, so sensitive that it allows you to take photos in a much lower light than was ever possible with film.

The benefits to a higher ISO are:

• Ability to shoot in a setting with much lower light and still capture a great shot.
• Enables you to take pictures of sporting events, stopping the action in time.
• Gives a shot a much greater depth of field.

Drawback to shooting with higher ISO: So why not always shoot allowing for the most light to enter the shot with the highest ISO possible? Well, there is a setback, that I didn’t really know about until doing my homework for this little photo post. Since I hate my flash, I have just been increasing the ISO all the way up to the max (on my camera it is 1600) which does make the sensor really sensitive, however, I have been noticing (lately) a little of what is known as “noise” by the pros. Noise is what happens when you increase and amplify any type of electrical signal, which is what you are doing when you increase the ISO. Along with the signal of data you want, you will increase the static or noise. Think old-school radio and then you’ll get it.

Noise is photo static, it looks grainy, not sharp, even sometimes can look blurry or distorted (in extreme cases of course). Most of the time you won’t even see it until you enlarge your pictures, then in the shadowy areas especially it is bumpy and grainy. That is noise.

My conclusion after doing my homework on the ISO ins and outs:

If you are interested in the best image quality and sharpness, here is the rule I’ll give you: Shoot at the lowest ISO possible to make the shot. To do this you can mess around with the light meter and shutter speed and try to get the ISO down. However, If it isn’t possible, than of course a photo with noise is better than no image at all, so just shoot away. Don’t stress it!

When using the camera that I have, the Cannon EOS XSi/450D My noise complaints are extremely low, even when shooting at an ISO 1600. I would rather increase the noise on my shot, which doesn’t really bother me a ton and get the shot without using the flash than turn the flash on.

Photo Examples of shooting at high ISO:

Bread Image shot at ISO 1600 If you click on it and you’ll see some noise. For me that adds to the effect of the depth of field, so it doesn’t bother me.

Boys, Image shot at ISO 1600, now that I look at this one there was no reason for it to be shot with an ISO that high since it was outside, and I do see the noise and don’t like how it fights with the sharpness in this shot. I am learning.

Converse, Image shot at ISO 1600 this shot too, it is just fine the way it is. I guess I’ll never know what it could have been, but really now, does that matter?

I always love answering questions for readers. I’d love ideas on future Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips sessions if you have them. Leave me a comment, I love hearing from you!

Previous Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips:

The Basics
Capture Real People, In Real Life Shots
Work That Thing! How to Get the Best Shots
Tips for Group Shots: How to Shoot a Group Session Like You Know What You’re Doing!
Photo Editing, Fixin’ Your Images
Taking the Best Black and White Photos: What to Look For
What does the ISO Do For You?: Learning more about the ISO

Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips: I am going to do several of these posts, I am not a professional photographer by a long shot, but I love taking pictures and seeing beautiful pictures so I want to share what I have learned with you.

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By bethany (dreadlock girl), August 4, 2009 10:50 pm

1.) Don’t Get Lazy and think you’ll fix it later. try to take the best images you can in the moment, not leaving the dirty work to do on the computer. I have a theory that no matter how amazing digital cameras are, they are breeding a generation of lazy and tech heavy photographers. Don’t trade good technique and hard work for technology.

2.) Free photo editing online. I have fallen deeply in love with Picnik, it is a photo editing program that I have used for many an image. I just use it online. I paid the extra enabeling me to edit and change all that I please, but before I paid for the Picnik Premimum the freebe served me well too.

Here is the image you may recognize as my header image for the Dreadlock Girl main blog, with some changes and fixin’s done. With photo editing, you can do so much, you can make your own header, work with your own images by putting text in them, or the year on your kids shots.

Below is a screenshot of the final Dreadlock Girl header image, I love playing with Picnik! Make sure you check it out, you surely don’t want to be in the dark any longer. And you no longer have the excuse that you don’t know where to find the software. Picnik is excellent and very much pop-up free. There are small adds up at the top if you have not purchased the Premium Picnik, but they are not annoying. Picnik on!

3.) Don’t toss your shots too soon! switch them to B&W or sepia and that really can hide many mistakes, saving some photos from the rubbish bin, maybe even having them end up some of your favourites. An error with the light meeter, bad colouring and so many more unpredictable blunders may be blended and made invisible in B&W, as long as the image is good and sharp…try it!

4.) The more you edit, the more your image quality decreases. Yes, sadly this is true, unless you are working in RAW. I don’t work with RAW because they take so much more space than any of the other formats, and because I don’t like to edit that much it really doesn’t matter. So with every colour change and edit, just beware of your image quality.

5.) Try not to mess. This last one is all personal opinion, maybe because I am a little old school, maybe because I like to try and get it right the first time, but it is how I feel. When I take a shot, if the sky is white, it is white, if I am lucky it will be blue, but I don’t input a blue sky into my picture to make it better. Maybe more than anything I don’t like messing around with those kinds of details. I like taking pictures, editing is probably my least favourite. I only try to fix my mistakes, salvage some shots…and besides that: nothing.

Make sure you check in next Wednesday for Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips!!

I always love answering questions for readers. I’d love ideas on future Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips sessions if you have them. Leave me a comment, I love hearing from you!

Previous Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips:
The Basics
Capture Real People, In Real Life Shots
Work That Thing! How to Get the Best Shots
Tips for Group Shots: How to Shoot a Group Session Like You Know What You’re Doing!

Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips: I am going to do several of these posts, I am not a professional photographer by a long shot, but I love taking pictures and seeing beautiful pictures so I want to share what I have learned with you.

Comments (0)

By bethany (dreadlock girl), July 29, 2009 9:43 am

1.) Coordinate. It may sound cheesy to coordinate in matching colours, but it will be worth your scepticism when you see the results. I don’t want you to think, matchy-matchy shirts and pants because that is horrid. Here are some colour ideas for your group:

-Natural Colours: this works really well, really letting the faces stand out of the subjects.

-Primary Colours: I like this especially for kid groupings, but it could work on different ages as well.

-All One Colour: Tell your group beforehand to wear all wear green, pink or red-and not to worry about the shade of the colour, as that will add to the shot. Just say green, any shade of green. This works the best with a large group where there are so many shades that it really pops. If you do green, make sure to shoot outside for an added bonus of green around your subjects as well!

-In Uniform: This works if you are taking a photo of a group of ranchers, pilots, construction workers or Army men. It really shows off the faces because they will be wearing similar dress. Take care to not pose those in a uniform in a very strict pose, as it will just look like they are getting ready to march. Use different heights, some standing, some sitting. Or a pose that demonstrates their comradery, for example a shot of them all praying together, or with their arms across each other’s shoulders. These guys usually go deep, try to bring that out in your shot.

2.) Think Small to Shoot Big. Sometimes a huge group of people can be really intimidating, especially when thinking of how to pose them or get them all in. If you can, think of them in segments. You can group all the kids together, or the families or whatever you are working with, but call one group up at a time pose them as if for their own shoot and keep adding additional groups. This will make for a photo that has different heights, and that is much more visually stimulating than a group of people all standing  together looking confused. I would recommend only adding the kids in for some shots, and maybe doing generational shots. Bring the kids in first or last, but don’t let them be there long…or you’ll get grouchy faces.

3.) Posing is Everything and Then Its Not. Unless you like the look of just a blob of people standing there looking confused, pose them. Sometimes if you have them on a structure of some sort that will do the job for you. Kids sitting naturally all over a play structure( you can shoot them while they are actually playing). I have mentioned before that it is really not fun to boss and bully your subjects, and this stands true here too, but many times in order to get the little ones to cooperate (and oldest) you may need a bribe of Popsicles, brownies, or a swim in the ocean when it is all over.

Posing is also not everything because action group shots are great too. Some action shots are planned, but they can’t be posed. It makes for happier people when you have their minds working on something, and happier people mean happier and better shots. There is a craze lately of the mid-air jumping shots. Also, if you set your group back 100meters from you and then just say “RUN!” the running shots are great too. I saw a wedding shot of this recently were the whole bridal party had their shoes off and was running toward the camera. It was the best shot of that wedding. If a group of ladies is sewing and you are going to take their photo, don’t have them stand up and get in a blob and shoot, if they are sitting, kneel down and shoot them in what they are doing. You will get much more natural shots.

4.) Black and White is Your Friend. Because people don’t want to coordinate outfits, because they don’t always get the memo, because they don’t like to cooperate, because one lady is wearing an obnoxious blouse, and because it really does look better: go black and white when shooting groups. I don’t recommend actually taking them in black and white, but just know, if you throw a group of uncoordinated people (and or clashing colours) into Black and White you will be suprised by how much it changes for you. Also, it is whimsical, it is old fashioned, and really I think Black and White can add a lot to your group shots. So if all else fails – just make the switch.

I always love answering questions for readers. I’d love ideas on future Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips sessions if you have them. Leave me a comment, I love hearing from you!

Previous Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips:
The Basics
Capture Real People, In Real Life Shots
Work That Thing! How to Get the Best Shots

Dreadlock Girl Photography Tips: I am going to do several of these posts, I am not a professional photographer by a long shot, but I love taking pictures and seeing beautiful pictures so I want to share what I have learned with you.